Keemun tea, incense, orange rind, and dried berry aromas to Groffiers’ 2007 Bonnes Mares lead to a correspondingly resinous, subtly tannic, citrus-oil tinged palate. This finishes with grip, and indeed sizzle, smokiness, and pungency, but I don’t find precisely the elegance that the Groffiers opine characterizes this vintage in comparison with 2008. I would plan to enjoy it over the next several years, though of course I’d be delighted for its and for the Groffiers’ sakes if the wine were to make a fool of me!
Nicolas Groffier seems not to have been bashful when it comes to extracting flavors from the family’s 2008 grapes (harvested in a mere 5 days, finishing October 1), despite what he emphasizes was the tiny size of both yields and berries. When it comes to elevage, though, he was cautious even at a risk he acknowledges of wines that might show stiffly and reductively for a while after bottling, having racked the young 2008s into tank after just shy of 12 months, which for some lots meant almost immediately after the conclusion of malo. (Bottling sessions were in December and February). Natural alcohols in 2008 were in the upper 12’s (the 2007s were very slightly higher) and typically adjusted by about a quarter of a degree. (David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate, 29th Jun 2010, 89 Pts)
